Thai beaches: same same but very different

Well we had big plans for doing more sightseeing upon our return to Thailand and after celebrating my b-day in Bangkok, but after India we decided hitting the beaches would be a nice respite.

Then we had to decide where to go. The challenge was the Gulf – where we got married – was in the middle of monsoon season although we longed for The Sanctuary, we decided to head to Andaman Sea side.  For anyone who has heard my recs on Thailand knows I say stay far away from Phuket unless you’re interested in a lil’ Bangkok filled with LOTS of big Europeans, Starbucks, McDonalds and girlie bars so we opted to fly into Krabi then had plans to reconnect with Eva (who did our fab wedding video) on Ko Phi Phi.  Brad had never been to the east side and the last time I was there was a few months before the 2004 Tsunami.
We’re on the verge of Thai beach peak season so if you like peace and serenity, Krabi, Ao Nang, Riley Beach, Ko Phi Phi, Phuket…not the best destination this time of year. Prices are outrageous and there’s too many people who look too much like you (if you’re of Western descent).  Upon arrival in Krabi, we did what many don’t and headed straight for the Tiger Temple, which is built into the hillside, just about 8km from the airport. To reach the top temple, one must climb more than 1200 steps..in 100 % humidity.  For two people who’ve done very little cardio in the past several weeks, we looked like we would pass out but the temple and view were worth it.

Then we went to Ao Nang Beach.  After stumbling through a couple tourist-laden days here and Riley, we abandoned Ko Phi Phi (the tons of tourists hanging off the ferry heading there drove the nail in the coffin) and opted for Ko Lanta. 

 
This is a much bigger island than Ko Phi Phi but without the density of resorts and people.  While there are a few areas with adjacent resorts much of island is wide open. It’s like what Ko Phi Phi must have been 10 years ago, but bigger. We opted for a resort at the farthest end of island from the ferry terminal in Bamboo Bay. It was perfect. A few modest units built into the hillside with an exceptional restaurant right on the water and incredible staff who were most helpful and friendly.  This is what Thailand is and should be…not the insulation of resort that cater to “farrongs” with every last amenity of home. If I wanted to go to Hawaii, I would.  This was pure Thailand – except one part of the island that is home to a colony of historical sea gypsies. We took off on the scooters one day and went exploring and uncovered a tranquil part of the island then went to the Sea Gypsy village where they have their own dialect and most people look Polynesian.  In fact, we could have easily been in some of the remote areas of Hawaii or Samoa.

 We enjoyed beach time, swimming (the water is about 78F), scootering, napping and even took in our first joint scuba effort. (Brad did a refresher).

 
It was way too short, but if we make it back, we plan to spend much more time.  We’re packing up our sandals and bathing suits and heading to Tokyo where we’ll spend three days along with a 2.5 day trip to Kyoto.  Can’t believe we’re near the end…but really the beginning of our new lives in the Bay Area.